Gibson electric guitars, it’s hardly a secret, have been the dominant rival of Fenders since the early 1950’s. But that’s pretty much where the companies competitions part ways as far as the popularity of their other products go. Gibson’s acoustics are known (justifiably) as great instruments, while Fenders various attempts at acoustics have never really taken flight (though the late sixties Wildwood series are pretty underrated cool guitars, even if they’re not the equal of Gibson acoustics). And, correspondingly, Gibson’s amplifiers have never come close to having the impact of Fender’s amps.

Gibson had some great amps that ran alongside most of Fender’s classic phases. While Fender was cranking out one great tweed model after another, Gibson quietly had some great models of their own. The early post-WWII amps (the early GA series) have started to attract a pretty solid following (deservedly so) in the blues and roots music worlds. They have a warm, rich clean tone, and a really nice growl and bark when pushed hard. It’s a difficult distortion to describe, but the early models from the late 40’s and early to mid-50’s have an overdriven tube sound somewhere between the early 50’s Danelectro (often Silvertone branded) amps, and early Fender Tweeds. This series of GA’s are darker than the Fenders, yet not quite as dark as the Danos can often be.

The notes have a sweet bloom. They are great amps. This GA series included the fabulous GA-30 and GA-50 amps. Both the 30 and the 50 (and the 50T, with tremolo) sport one 12” and one 8” speaker. This pairing of the different sized speakers gave this series a sound all their own. The GA-30 had a pair of 6V6’s, and (perhaps obviously) had an earlier breakup than the GA-50, which had dual 6L6’s for their output.

Gibson GA-20RVT Minuteman

Not long after this, Gibson introduced the amp that used to be very affordable on the vintage market: The Les Paul Amp. It has, however, been discovered and now has quite a following and has become pretty expensive—though still can be had for less than most new boutique amps. This is probably the one Gibson amp I’ve heard that is closest to a similarly powered Fender model—the Tweed Deluxe. They are not identical, but it is the one Gibson that could sound similar to the Tweed Deluxe on the stage. Most of each company’s models sound very different, but these share one great quality—the breakup when pushed. The Les Paul is one of the best dual 6V6 amps ever made. Where they differ is not really a better or worse, but simply a difference. The Gibson is a bit darker, and its cleans are rounder and less crisp than the Deluxe. You can’t lose with either one. Of course, if you’re like me, you also probably can’t afford either one.

I could go through all the periods, but I want to get to a specific mid-sixties model. This period is a very underrated one in Gibson amp history. By this point, Gibson’s amps did not sound much of anything similar to the same period of Fender Blackface amps. There are some absolutely underrated and great models in this period, but they and Fender’s similarly powered amps of this period have very different tones and feels. 

Which brings us to the GA-20 RTV Minuteman. This, along with the really cool Kalamazoo 12 are, loosely, Gibson’s competition for the Deluxe Reverb. Competition as far as power and features go—but not really alike. Both the Gibson and the Kalamazoo have a pair of EL84’s for about 18 watts of output, while of course the Deluxe Reverb pushes its 6V6’s up to a rated 22 watts. But the tone of the blackface Fender is so well known, it’s a classic standard of an amp that’s perfect for the studio or the stage. 

Since the GA-20 RVT has its own thing going on, let’s turn to it and look at some of its characteristics. On the left, it has a “Normal” channel, which only has controls for loudness (Gibson’s name for “volume”), treble, and bass. This channel has a really rich, bright, clean (not the deepest bottom on this amp) that has a lot of chime. This channel also has a slightly different sounding breakup than the “Reverb” channel. But not that much different, and it lacks all the features of the amp, so why use the “Normal” channel? Does anyone tend to use the first channel on the Deluxe Reverb, either? Really, the best thing about the Deluxe Reverb’s first channel is that you can pull the first 12AX7 tube, which makes the reverb/tremolo channel full of more grit and drive. Sadly, there’s no first channel tube to pull on the Gibson to make the second channel have more grit and a stronger breakup.

That said, the second channel is still the channel to use. From left to right, you have loudness, treble, bass—with the addition of reverb and then the intensity and speed (called “depth” and “frequency” by Gibson) for the tremolo. Before we get to the effects, the basic tone of the amp has a lot of range. It has a rich bass (though, as I say, not as deep and resonant as a Deluxe Reverb), and a wide swing to a bright treble. And all points in between. You can coax some wonderful cleans out of this amp. Added to this, the reverb is rich…neither totally like a Fender or an Ampeg, but maybe somewhat close to an early 60’s Magnatone. It’s rich, and it has a large range from subtle to very deep. And every setting sounds good—it’s a question of what you want to do with it. But a very useful effect.

Gibson GA-20RVT Minuteman second channel

Added to this is a really impressive sounding tremolo (and the verb and trem pedal is hardwired into the amp, and tucks into its own holder inside the cab…it also has a very long cord, so it reaches as far ahead of the amp as you’d need for it to sit with a pedal board). The tremolo has a ton of both depth and frequency. When I’m using tremolo, I tend to turn it all the way up, and only vary the speed/frequency, depending on the song. But for this article, I tried from the lowest depth to just below full depth (since I’m well acquainted with every one of my amps’ dimed intensity/depth), and was really impressed by its range. Not that I will ever use said range, but it’s probably good for others to know it’s there. And the “frequency” has a really wide sweep from very slow and lush, to very fast and strong. And perhaps the best thing about the tremolo is that it doesn’t make the amp quieter when it’s engaged. So many amps have a nice tremolo that’s all but unusable in a louder section of a song because of their volume drop. But the Minuteman stays prominent and strong when engaged. Also, as a technical note under the hood, the tremolo has a variable resistor for bias adjustment.

Lastly, tone-wise, is the distortion/breakup. It’s not really like any other 18 (or so) watt EL84 amp. Not even its Kalamazoo cousin (which has a more standard and predictable—in a good way—breakup). It doesn’t have the bluesy crank of a Lectrolab (some of which were equipped with EL84’s)…the warm drive of, say, the EL84 Hilgen or a Sano (two incredibly underrated amp companies)…it lacks the throaty chime of an AC15…it sounds nothing like the great Valco-made Harmony 415 (which is actually a twin twelve amp, even though it has only the two EL84’s). It’s really all its own. What’s interesting is that it’s a bit thin when pushed on its own. But put a good overdrive pedal in front of it, and it truly sings. So, while (unlike the earlier amps like the GA-30/50, or the Les Paul amp) its natural breakup isn’t perfect on its own, it is actually an outstanding amp to push to distortion with a pedal in front of it. I’ve used several overdrive pedals in front of it, and they all sound great (if subtly different). I’ve also used a boost pedal with a single germanium transistor (based on the Dallas Rangemaster treble boost, but with settings for mid boost and full boost, as well), and the tone was incredible. So, as a platform for a good pedal, the breakup is outstanding. 

A few slight downsides: the weight and the tubes. It’s not exactly heavy, but it seems like it just weighs more than a single 12” amp should. The size is great for portability, but it would be nice if it were a little lighter. About the tubes: there’s nothing wrong with them, but it has some slightly uncommon tubes. The common EL84’s and the two 12AU7’s it uses are so common many guitarists already have some of them sitting around. These aren’t even tubes you tend to need to order…you just have a bunch. And if you need new ones, they are incredibly easy to find/buy. But the Minuteman also uses three 6EU7’s. Now, these are hardly impossible to find, but they aren’t sitting around most guitarist’s homes. 

Also—and this is a warning that goes for just about every mid 60’s Gibson amp—the schematics are an issue. Gibson schematics of this period are more suggestion than they are totally accurate, like, say, Fender’s were. However, most of the omissions/changes from amp to amp are really minor. But it’s something for you (or your tech) to know.

But these issues are hardly the end of the world. The GA-20 RTV is a great vintage tube amp that can still be had for between $350-450 depending on condition. I’ve seen people asking for more, but they don’t seem to move very quickly if they’re priced at $500 or higher. Is it perfect? No. But it’s pretty great amp. You just need a nice pedal, some 6EU7’s and at about $400. And, for that, it’s still something of a steal.

By Rob Roberge (www.robroberge.com)

The Gibson Minuteman GA-20 RVT from MyRareGuitars.com

You’ve finally made your decision to slap down some of your scarce cash on a reissue or new model tube amp built in the Far East for a BIG name manufacturer. It seems like a great deal: the vintage amps of this model sell for thousands of dollars more, it looks like the real thing and the specs appear to be the same (same tubes, same power, same controls, etc.). And, it sounded pretty darn good in the store too.

So, why should you NOT buy it and instead consider a hand made, BUDGET BOUTIQUE amp?

An excellent question and on that I’m sure will generate many opinions. Following is my take on this scenario. It may change how you pursue your quest for spine tingling tone … without having to re-mortgage your house to get it!

Why shouldn’t you buy the reasonably priced BIG name amp? That question can be answered in two words:

Value and Quality

BORING you may be thinking: these are goals that any business tries to achieve. However, in this case they really mean something and by paying attention to them you can have a significantly better amp ownership experience.

Bottom line: you CAN get an amp that sounds better and is more reliable than the BIG name, mass produced amp made in the Far East … for not a lot more money.

That’s right, in exchange for a reasonable price premium (I know … yeah right, you’re thinking) you really can get kick-ass tone that puts a mile-wide grin on your face and a piece of gear that is versatile and won’t break (and if it does it’s fixed pronto by someone who cares!). That’s the definition of a BUDGET BOUTIQUE amp. Sounds like good value? It is.

Here’s the alternate scenario to the one above. Magically, you’re now presented with a second amp featuring:

• All tube circuitry
• Kick-ass tube tone that blows you away
• Telepathic sensitivity to the player’s touch
• The ability to morph from chime to crunch to face-ripping distortion with the twist of your guitar’s volume knob
• Hand made, hand wired construction that is robust and reliable
• Customer service provided by a company that cares about creating a great ownership experience

All for only $200 – $300 more than recent Fender reissues or the same price or LESS than many Marshall tube amps… that are made in the Far East featuring printed circuit boards to minimize cost.

How do you decide whether to spring for the BUDGET BOUTIQUE amp? Let’s play out the scenario.

Is the tone difference that big a deal?
You bet it is – that’s owners speaking, not me. The difference between playing through an amp that sounds pretty darn good vs. playing through a BUDGET BOUTIQUE amp that blows you away is huge – you deserve the experience! BUDGET BOUTIQUE amps can do that.

Touch sensitivity isn’t even on my radar screen, what’s up with that?
An amp that is sensitive to your playing dynamics and instantly responds to your picking hand is a revelation. Warm, vibrant notes pop out of the amp almost before you play them. It adds a new dimension to your sound and a whole new layer of pleasure to your playing.

In my experience I set my amp up for a good tone and go for it. If I want to change tones I twiddle with the amp or throw pedals in front of it. What’s wrong with that?
Nothing. But, a really good BUDGET BOUTIQUE amp will be versatile giving you a range of awesome tones controllable from your guitar. Set the maximum volume and level of distortion you desire and then roll off your guitar’s volume to morph into beautiful clean tones and everything in between.

Won’t a mass produced amp with machine-stuffed, printed circuit boards be more reliable than a hand made amp?
Talk to owners of these amps and read on-line reviews to discover the answer. Amps that use printed circuit boards instead of hand wired boards or point-to-point wiring are inherently more difficult to repair. For example, a simple component replacement job that takes a few minutes on a hand wired amp could take an hour on a printed circuit board amp.

My local music store gives me good service. They’ll look after my amp if it breaks won’t they?
Sure they will or at least they’ll try. Unfortunately, the good people at your local music store are often stuck with a BIG name amp manufacturer’s less than satisfactory repair policy and response time. Dealing with a small amp builder can be a vastly different experience. Most recognize that satisfying EVERY customer is absolutely critical because they don’t have as many as the big guys and they know that bad customer service can sink their business. That means you get responsive service designed to get you back up and playing as quickly as possible.

Hand made, boutique amps have an image of being extremely expensive. However, BUDGET BOUTIQUE builders really do provide terrific amp value. It just takes a little effort to find them. Believe me, they’re out there all right … making great amps.

So, for a few hundred dollars more – or in some cases at the same or even lower price (!) – you can get strikingly better tone, much better reliability and personalized product support if anything goes wrong. Which amp would you choose?

BUY TONE NOT GLITZ!

Budget Boutique Amps: What Are They and Why Should You Buy One from MyRareGuitars.com

Class A tube guitar amps. Everyone’s heard the term. It’s generally associated with higher-end amps in support of an amp maker’s claim that their product sounds “better”.

I’ll leave the debate as to which is better to others. What I want to discuss is what Class A really means and, from the pet peeve perspective, to debunk many amp manufacturers’ claims that their products are Class A when clearly they’re not! You may be surprised at how many amp makers falsely claim Class A operation. So, let’s review, in practical terms, what Class A really is and learn a simple rule of thumb you can use to spot operating class BS!

There’s no denying that Class A amps have different tonal characteristics when compared to the more common ClassAB amps. However, as with anything related to tone, “better” is in the ear of the beholder. There are plenty of butt kickin’ amps out there of both classes.

What does “Class A operation” mean? Technically, it refers to where on a tube’s operating curve, it’s biased. That’s it. Bias a tube one way and it’s operating in Class A, change the bias and it’s in ClassAB.

Of course, there are always technical details that complicate things. In this case, the complicating detail is that tubes biased to operate in the Class A “zone” require a lower voltage supply. Otherwise, they’ll quickly fail. Enough tech stuff, no need to worry about that. I mentioned it to avoid a misperception that you can simply take your amp to a tech for a 5-minute re-bias job and you’re in Class A land. Can’t happen. Fundamental changes to your Class A/B amp would be required to lower the voltage and otherwise set it up for Class A operation. Back to regular programming!

Fixed vs. cathode biasing is another “Class A” related misconception. Many believe that if an amp is cathode biased it is Class A. Not true. An amp can be A or A/B and fixed or cathode biased. Again, it depends on where the tube is biased on its operating curve not how it is biased.

Another factor in the myth is that if an amp has a “single-ended” power tube configuration it is Class A. Conversely, so the myth goes, if an amp has a push-pull power tube configuration it is Class A/B. Once again, the operating class of the amp is not defined by the power amp configuration. It is true that many (most?) single-ended amps are, in fact, Class A. But, on its own “single-ended” does not define an amp’s operating class. An amp can be Class A push-pull or Class A/B single-ended or vice versa.

The technical difference between single-ended and push-pull power amps are perhaps a topic for another article; I mention it here because they are common terms and often enter into the Class A vs. Class A/B confusion.

I mentioned above that Class A amps sound different from Class A/B amps. To review, Class A means the tubes are operating in a different part of their operating zone as compared to Class A/B. Two important things happen as a result. First, tubes operating in Class A produce more even harmonic content. Second, they produce less power.

Tubes biased to operate in Class A/B produce more odd order harmonics. Generally, even order harmonics sound more pleasing than odd. That’s why Class A and Class A/B sound different. However, as I mentioned earlier there are MANY GREAT sounding Class A/B amps. Don’t get unnecessarily biased toward Class A amps (amp builder’s humor – HAHA!).

The fact that a Class A amp with the same power tube configuration as a Class A/B amp produces less power leads us to the simple rule of thumb you can use to check whether an amp is really Class A: just compare the power tube configuration to the claimed output power rating of the amp.

Here are the guidelines I use to tell if an amp’s manufacturer doesn’t have their facts straight:

*Some smaller Class A/B Fenders (e.g. early Princetons and Deluxes, etc.) that feature two 6V6s are rated around 15 watts – later examples are in the more typical 20+ watt range.

If the marketing hype shows output power near or above these ratings and it says the amp is Class A – there’s something wrong! If the output power is a fair chunk lower, the amp is most probably Class A. Simple!

Next time you read a guitar mag have fun by checking the tube configuration, power rating and operating class claims of your favorite amps. You may be surprised at what you find!

Class A Tube Amps: Marketing Hype vs. Reality from MyRareGuitars.com

Airline 18-Watt Handwired Combo Amp

In addition to my monthly rants and raves here in Guitarticles, I also donate some experience and opinions in the design and development of many EASTWOOD guitar models. So, last month Mike Robinson of Eastwood Guitars sent me a prototype of his new Airline 18-Watt Handwired Combo Amp for review. The AMP is scheduled for release in October. Despite UPS’ efforts to the contrary, it arrived in perfect condition with a black – almost “bedliner” looking covering – a different take from the usual Tolex treatment. This material is very tough and cleans up nicely. The Airline sported an Emminence Red Coat speaker which looks to me to be a copy of a Celestion Vintage 30, which by the way is one of my favorite speakers. The controls on the Airline are simple a volume, a tone and a three position switch. The switch seems to fatten up as you go from position 1 to position 3, a great addition when going from single coil to humbucking pickups. I reported to Mike immediately that I thought the knobs – which were original 1960’s Airline knobs – are not my cup of tea, perhaps some chrome knobs?. I also thought that the pilot light, on/off, and standby switches also looked chinsey. But hey, he asked me to take this baby for a TONE test drive, not a fashion show, so now let’s get down to the sound.

I plugged the amp in and was expecting it (with its dual EL84’s) to sound like a Marshall with that classic compressed signature sound. It did not; I initially thought that the speaker was the difference but upon playing the amp more I realized that this amp was indeed a different bird. First off the Airline is a cleaner amp with more headroom then the Marshall. The Airline seems to be a bit louder than its British counterpart, hence the clean headroom. The Marshall sounds best when turned up all the way, revealing its signature sound. A sound that is fat, and compressed, with a fair amount of Marshallesque high end. You cannot get that sound from the Airline, but what you do get is a more versatile amp that sounds very good at any volume setting. It’s lively and strong in its sound. The three position switch is also a nice addition. The amp held its head up nicely when paired with my Blackface Pro Reverb in a live A/B setting.

Where the amp really shines is when you plug a few different guitars in. My Les Paul sounded great at the first of the three tone settings on the Airline. The amp replicated the classic bluesy Les Paul sound very well. And due to the headroom the Airline has, it also handled a few different pedals I plugged in impressively well.

But, when I plugged in a Strat the amp really, really shined. The guitar sounded full and nasty at amp and guitar on 10, but when I started to turn the amp down to about 6 it cleaned up w/ a funky tone that was amazing. Now the flood gates opened, I started trying all different combinations amp on 10 guitar on 5, position 1 through 3 on the tone selector, different pickups!, I was there for about two hours getting truly breathtaking sounds, all with different degrees of chunk/clarity and sustain even at moderate volumes. Before I knew it, it was sunrise and I went to bed thinking about other guitars I would have to try next day.

After a midday cup of “Joe” the Airline got fed a steady diet of my favorite Eastwood guitars, the Sidejack, Delta 6, P90 Special, and the Saturn all yielded similar results, the Airline revealed their versatility and tonal possibilities without pause.

It’s not a fancy looking boutique amp with piping and a brushed golden aluminum faceplate. It, like its guitar namesake, is a retro looking niche offering featuring unusual angles and colors. However, where most niche AMP’s turn out to be one-trick ponies, this versatile AIRLINE delivers, big time!

The Airline is a point to point custom shop handmade amp with a versatile sound, Made in Canada, quality workmanship and a well matched speaker. With most of it’s competition at a street price in the $1,800 range, the AIRLINE holds ground and offers an uncommon versatility. But, knowing Mike, we won’t have to pay that much! Right?

Verdict: I LOVE THIS AMP!!!

Gear Review: Airline 18-Watt Combo Amp from MyRareGuitars.com